ONE OF A KIND: STUDIO GIN
STUDIO GIN founder Tsuyoshi Kawata does everything to reach his goal of becoming the world's No. 1 hand patchwork artist. He always experiments with sewing techniques, presents unusual combinations of patches, values garments with history and never repeats himself in his designs.

Before creating STUDIO GIN, Mr. Kawata passionately wore jeans from western brands, repaired them by hand and even traveled around Europe to meet like-minded people Read our interview how all of this led to the fact that now he creates unique clothing with hand-made patchwork and true vintage feeling.
ONE OF A KIND: STUDIO GIN
STUDIO GIN founder Tsuyoshi Kawata does everything to reach his goal of becoming the world's No. 1 hand patchwork artist. He always experiments with sewing techniques, presents unusual combinations of patches, values garments with history and never repeats himself in his designs.

Before creating STUDIO GIN Mr. Kawata passionately wore jeans from western brands, repaired them by hand and even traveled around Europe to meet like-minded people Read our interview how all of this led to the fact that now he creates unique clothing with hand-made patchwork and true vintage feeling.
You're a big fan of denim culture. You wore many jeans to hardcore fade and show it in your pages. So, where's your passion for jeans comes from? Remember that good old time when jeans blew your mind for the first time?
I was looking for something unique that can be cherished for a long period of time. When I learned about faded jeans, I was mesmerized by their beauty.

Jeans that's been worn a long time fade differently based on the owner's lifestyle. Realizing how each faded jean has a story behind it and that itself is unique was what got me into it to begin with.

Now I don't wear jeans so often, and usually wear something comfy that's easy to work in.
For a long time you repaired your own jeans by yourself. How did you learn sashiko and other hand-stitched techniques? Which things were most difficult to learn?
When I first started, I used to use a sewing machine to repair jeans just like any jean shop. But soon I felt that it didn't have an interesting look to it, and decided to do it by hand.

It does take more time, but I love the detailed patch work that can only be created by hand, and I've been continuing to do so until now.

The sashiko style and hand stitching is self-taught. There's so much information online these days that I practiced from imitating videos, and learned techniques from looking at and feeling actual clothings.
In the past, you traveled in Europe to meet some people from various denim brands and present a collaboration with Nudie. How did you decide to travel? And how did that collaboration with Nudie happen?
It all started when I posted my own Nudie Jeans on social media. Someone working in the Nudie Jeans HQ saw my post on Instagram and contacted me.

In the beginning it was just contacting each other through social media, but in 2018 while I was still in uni, I decided to use my free time to go on a trip. I thought it would be a great opportunity to visit the Nudie Jeans HQ in Sweden and decided on my destination. I carried it out quickly back then.

The people at HQ told me that they'd like to make a replica of my jeans, so I left it with them, which led to the collaboration with Nudie Jeans.
I also visited Amsterdam during this trip and was able to spend time with people from lots of different denim brands.

From this experience, I strongly felt the power fashion has to connect people. Where people who have the same love for denim get together, become friends and expand the circle.

I'm not sure if this is a cultural thing but everyone I met in Europe was very social and welcomed me with open arms, introducing me to so many interesting people. The people I met during this trip are still my friends.
In Recent years you mostly focus on custom vintage garments. What's your passion for vintage? Why do you like to take some vintage garments for a "base"?
Vintage items have a presence words cannot express. As I said earlier, I'm drawn to things that have a story from being used for a long period of time.

Vintage items have natural fades and sunburns, stains that can't be replicated, all of this is what draws me to them.
How do you select the clothing for a "base" and garments for a patches? What is important to you while searching for some pieces? Years of made, condition, origin country, other things? Which pieces you don't like to use?
To be honest the years of made and where it's from isn't really that important. I follow my heart when I choose fabrics and clothings to use as a base which I collect on a regularly. So when I want to create something, I just choose from there. I do prefer vintage fabrics but if I'm drawn to it, I'll use relatively new fabrics as well. I'm very stubborn with the quality of my creation, but I might be quite flexible when it comes to which fabrics I use.

Recently, I often see remakes with trendy anime characters drawn on them, but I would never use this material.

For me it's important to show my techniques rather than for the focus to be on a popular character.
Which rare garments do you dream about to use for a base?
I would love to use an item from a brand that's out of my reach and customize it in a boro like style. I have so many ideas of things I want to create, so hopefully I can show it off someday.
Do you have any rituals or something unusual and special related to your current working process?
I try to do everything I can by hand. I place a lot of value on delicate designs that can only be expressed by hand stitching and artisan like work. I sometimes do use sewing machines but I try to create with my hands as much as possible. This is kind of my virtue.
Your hand-stitching process needs a lot of time, so it's kinda meditative. What effect does this process have on you?
I'm very relaxed while I'm creating, like in a meditative state like you've mentioned. Since it's detailed work, the focus is on my hands but my mind is very relaxed.

Oftentimes while creating, a new idea for a different project comes to mind, so it's also an important process for myself and my creative activities.

I want to be considered number one in the world when it comes to hand stitched patchwork, so I'm always practicing and trying something new to improve my skills, not just relaxing.
Your latest customized Chucks and The Special bag looks pretty close to crust punk pants. Tell us more about these pieces. How do you create it? What inspired you to create it? Which details were most hard to do?
I wanted to create something that's cool to use but also captivating as an art piece. I've been creating patchwork using vintage aprons, military textiles and scraps of jeans before, so I was inspired by my past pieces and decided to incorporate that into the Chuck Taylor and original bags.

The entire process for the Chuck Taylor is done by hand stitching, so the delicate procedure takes time and a lot of concentration. But it requires a high level of skill and time to create the best of anything.
What's your sources for inspiration? Which things inspired you? Highlight your favorite music and other stuff that surround you beside the world of clothing.
I like indie music and independent movies. Their DIY mindset is something that I sympathize with and get drawn into. I learned how to repair and customize on my own, so the DIY mindset to do everything you can yourself is something we have in common.

Of course there's other things I gain inspiration from, but there's nothing in particular. There's often times where I'm unconsciously inspired from what I see and hear in my daily life.
Based on your own experience and mistakes, share a few advices to some hand-stitching enthusiasts?
The sense of hand stitching that's possible to get a hang of after practicing many times is very important. This is what creates even spans and beautiful stitching.

However, it's easily blurred or lost. Even if you think you've mastered it, before you realize it, these senses can blur and cause misalignments of millimeters.

If possible, it's important to hold a needle every day and hand stitch to maintain these senses.
There is a Japanese proverb "even dust becomes a mountain" which means no matter how small something is, it can add up and become something big like a mountain.

The efforts made every day are what add up to acquiring the best senses, and there you gain skill for the first time.
ONE OF A KIND: STUDIO GIN

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Grade Moscow
28th June, 2023